This summer’s latest t-shirt trend is a new take on negative space: the ghost pocket tee. It’s a sun-bleached shirt where the chest pocket has been removed, leaving behind a darker square of unfaded fabric.

Like released hems on denim jeans, ghost pockets are part of a larger shift in the vintage world toward appreciating wear and tear as a marker of individuality and authenticity.

The first ghost pocket tee probably started out as an accident. Someone wore a tee long enough for the sun to wash out the color. Then—maybe because it ripped, or maybe just for fun—they removed the pocket, revealing a perfect square of the original shade. Now, designers are catching on.

LA-based label DEGEN is one of the first to produce ghost pocket tees in a controlled way. Their version uses single-stitch tees, dyed and faded to reveal a square where the pocket used to be. They come in two-packs, charcoal and black, and hit that sweet spot between vintage and design, and have been sold out for weeks.

If you want to recreate the layered grunge look yourself, all you need is an old tee with a pocket and some sun exposure. Leave it outside for a few weeks, then carefully remove the pocket. Just know: unless you’re fading it on a dress form—or on your own body—it’ll be tough to get that signature smooth 360 sun fade. For that, you might want to turn to the professionals or start with a pre-faded tee.