This past weekend at Inspiration Tokyo, a rare pair of Levi’s jeans dating to the 1890s sold for an astonishing $240,000, setting a new high watermark for antique denim. These jeans are now among the most valuable denim pieces globally, thanks to their incredible age, striking dark wash, and remarkable wearable condition—a rarity for jeans this old.

The demand for vintage jeans seems to skyrocket each year, with higher price tags than ever before. Last year, a pair from 1873 sold for $115,000, and the year prior, another historic pair fetched $87,000. Three names consistently appear in these record breaking deals: Umer Saleem the collector, Brit Eaton the gleaner, and, of course, Levi Strauss the manufacturer. We had the privilege of witnessing this significant transaction and speaking with the key players involved.

The negotiation was polite but serious: Akira, the seller, initially asked for $250,000, while Umer, the buyer, offered $235,000. Eventually, they settled at $240,000, sealing the deal. Here’s how the key players reflected on this momentous sale:

Akira, the Seller
When asked if he’d ever tried on the jeans, Akira responded with a chuckle, “No, no, no, no, no, no, no!” He described the sale as a “crazy situation” and remarked, “Number one piece. I’m excited—I have to dance!”

Brit Eaton, Who Sold the Jeans to Akira

Brit recounted the jeans’ journey with his trademark infectious enthusiasm, “Six years ago, I worked with Mushroom Vintage. He bought the oldest Levi’s in the world from my friend—I facilitated that deal. A few years later, I bought them back for around $90,000. Last year, I sold the oldest pair at Festivus for $115,000. Some lady saw an article about me in the paper, and she had an old pair of Levi’s.”

He continued, “She found these jeans in a mine on a hike. She read the article about me and thought, ‘I wonder if they’re worth anything.’ And she called me. Levi Strauss even tried to buy them, but I outbid one of the largest clothing companies in the world. You know why? Because I believed in them more than they did. I believed in these jeans more than Levi Strauss.”

Umer, the Buyer
When asked why he was so enthusiastic about these jeans, Umer said, “The condition of these Levi’s—it’s like a myth until you see it for yourself.” He plans to display the jeans as a prized piece in his upcoming museum, remarking, “For Levi’s jeans from the 1880s in this condition, I think even Levi’s would bid over $240,000. It’s worth every penny.”

With 19th century Levi’s fetching record-breaking sums, collectors and enthusiasts alike are watching closely to see how high prices might go. If they continue to double yearly, could we see a seven-figure pair of Levi’s by 2026?